Five Ideas For Skincare Enthusiasts In Search Of Something New
When you're no longer a beginner and truly have skincare as a hobby, you quickly realize that the advice and discussion across the internet is often written for complete novices, limited to problems solving, or just another excuse to sell products. We don't need another explanation about the virtues of wearing sunscreen or Vitamin C serums. Niancinimide and exfoliating are not new and revolutionary. So where does a beauty enthusiast go for more advanced consideration of skincare topics? If it feels like you've exhausted all the quality skincare content available online, this curated list is for you.
These new ideas are a jumping off point, much like the rabbit holes shared in our last curated list (which includes a must watch presentation on the future of Trend Analysis). The resources below help answer the question, “What next?”, when you're in need of fresh skincare inspiration.
Acteess Mary Bayless washing her face with Dial soap in the promotional short film The Clean Look (1951).
#1 Audit Your Skincare Products Using The “500 Dalton Rule”
Are your products actually capable of penetrating deep enough through the layers of skin to deliver the promised results? The same active ingredient will perform differently depending on how it is formulated.
The “500 Dalton Rule” refers to the minimum molecular size - measured in Daltons - required for substances to pass through the epidermis. If an ingredient is greater than 500 Daltons, it cannot absorb beyond the outermost layer of our skin. Dalton size matters most when using active ingredients meant to transform the skin - collagen, Vitamin C, retinols, etc. This incredibly valuable reference guide from Les Nouvelles Aesthetics and Spa explains product absorption in greater detail and lists the Dalton sizes most effective for common skincare ingredients.
You may also be interested in the original study: “The 500 Dalton Rule for the Skin Penetration of Chemical Compounds and Drugs,” published in Experimental Dermatology by Jan D. Bos and Marcus M Meinardi in the year 2000. This paper is the foundation for the continued research on ingredient delivery strategies.
We recommend a full skincare audit. Check the molecular size of key ingredients in the products you're currently using to ensure the claims on your bottles are more than just marketing buzzwords.
#2 Shift Your Perspective on Anti-Aging
Once your skincare journey has advanced beyond the essentials of a daily routine, it is common to switch your focus to anti-aging treatments that address existing and future signs of aging. Surrounded by flawlessly filtered faces and the latest technology, there is an intense pressure to do everything we can to reverse the clock.
Our research, product selection, and inner monologue become part of a fight against time, turning a hobby that should bring joy into another source of stress.
"All is Vanity" by Charles Allan Gilbert, 1873-1929.
An underrated expert on all things Asian beauty, Renee aka Gothamista has been uploading videos on YouTube for years using terms such as “Well Aging” and “Slow Aging” instead of anti-aging. She embraces products and tools that tackle the signs of aging we are all concerned about, but with a softer approach that embraces the aging process and nurtures the body through the transition. Here are a selection of videos for inspiration:
Taking a step back to reframe your skincare goals can breathe new life into the hobby.
#3 - Listen in on professional conversations
While there are not many outlets for regular, in depth conversations about skincare, you can get your fix by seeking out skincare podcasts aimed at estheticians. Try searching for specific topics within Spotify and seeing what podcast episodes come up. Here are few channels to browse that cover skincare at a high level:
The Esthetician Hub by Vanessa Lia, a licensed Medical and Holistic Esthetician. In addition to content aimed at helping skincare professionals, she hosts experts on various skin health and wellness topics. Her two part interview with May Lindstrom covers so many fascinating topics - Part One and Part Two - it's great to hear her perspective on creating beautiful and effective products that truly change your relationship with yourself.
The Skinstructors by Master Estheticians Morgan and Joley. They have a combined twenty years of experience and use their podcast to speak directly to other working estheticians. Take a peek behind the curtain and gain a more robust understanding of skincare concerns such as Hyperpigmentation or Rosacea (Part One, Part Two, Part Three).
Woman Holding A Mirror. Attic red-figure pyxis, ca. 430 BC.
#4 - Indulge In Funny Skincare Videos
If you're looking for a new skincare themed channel, consider @DermAngelo, a board certified dermatologist with a lot of sass.
He reacts to skincare videos with humor and professional insight, pointing out the ridiculousness of the “morning shed” micro trend, elaborate product restocks, over complicated routines, and more. He also posts long-form videos showing the behind the scenes of many outpatient cosmetic procedures and gives straightforward advice about these treatments. Clean beauty lovers should be warned, he is against clean beauty; thankfully it isn't a major theme of the channel. Derm Angelo is delightful and his greatest contribution may be how he brings awareness to over consumption within the skincare world.
#5 Get Deep and Explore Skincare Through The Lens of Symbolism and Sociology
In the article Twin Visions of Progress: A Symbolic Analysis of Modern Beauty Trends, I examine two competing worldviews dominating the beauty industry and how they connect to traditional symbolic frameworks. In my essay on Process- Striving, I consider how social media trends shape social dynamics, especially as it relates to status competitions and signaling.
Both articles are relevant to skincare enthusiasts, offering a new way to look at current trends in both products and behavior. Subscribe to Salonnière Magazine for full access to these two articles, and even more thought provoking pieces on beauty and culture!